Thursday, 22 March 2012

18th March - Portland

We left Mt Gambier and headed to Portland where we will be catching up with Leonie and Des friends from back home.   We cross the border into Victoria, not much of a sign for a border sign.   Nice country, travelling through dairy farms and forests.   We see our first porcupine crossing the road and manage not to hit it.   50 metres down the road, a black footed wallaby.
One of the small towns we pass through is Nelson and we stop by the Glenelg River as we noticed these fishing huts with moorings on the river.  This is something different we haven't seen before.   Back in the 40's and 50's the Glenelg river banks was quite a social spot, with many picnics and watching events on the river such as canoe and rowing racing, high diving, beauty pageant and even boxing.  In 1954, a pontoon carrying the highland pipes and drum band sank before onlookers.   We assume no one was injured or died as there was no mention of this, would have created some excitement though I'm sure. 

We got to Portland and found a van park to book in to.  Called Leonie and told her where we were, they are lashing out and joining us, instead of finding a free camp to park up in.    We set up camp, found a nice sunny spot to take a load off and have a quiet drink, THEN in rocked the "Partymobile"!!    What a rig, a real home away from home.

It didn't take long for these guys to set, up - just reverse it up and connect the water and power, sweet.   This is a nice tree lined park, lots of trees and heaps of shade so we spent the afternoon chasing the sunny spots around, trying not to venture too far from camp and annoy other campers.

Now those that know Leonie, know she is a mad keen photographer.  Well she just had to upstage me with her tripod - when I bought mine out - she cracked up laughing, come on - that's not a tripod.... THAT'S a tripod!    And she was right, but mine does a good job AND it is much more compact and portable.....  I don't know where the afternoon went, but it just seemed to roll on into the night.    We moved into the warmth of the Winnie and drank some more, we did have some snacks...........but no tea.
Needless to say we ended up quite pickled and carried on until.........no one really knows.   It was a usual drinking session, lots of laughs were had, we sang, we danced - we hope we didn't annoy any of the neighbours.

Leonie has a lovely head of hair, it just about covered the table when she put her head down for a wee rest....... That would have been okay, but she kept getting back up a 2nd, 3rd and ???time.      And unbeknown to me, her and Killer ended up with some interesting photos.   My darl was the only one that behaved that night...  I can't wait till Leonie gets up to date on her blog, then again maybe I can.....

Saturday, 17 March 2012

17th March - Penola, Coonawarra (that's wine country!)

We went for a little drive in the country today about 30-40 minutes north of the Gambier deep into the heart of Terra Rossa country.   Terra Rossa is red volcanic soil on limestone base, this coupled together with the cool breezes of the south make this an ideal cabernet wine growing district.    We travelled through the Penola Forests and small towns of Tarpeena and Nangwarry to Penola (great little museum at tourist info here).   
A Wynn at Wynns Coonawarra Estate - this is the first winery in Coonawarra, commenced by John Riddoch in 1896.
 Brands Laira was a nice stop, not sure whether to go the bottle or the glass??    In 1893 a retired sea captain named Stentiford purchased a plot of land in Coonawarra naming it after his much loved ship, Laira.  Eric Brand the first Patron of Coonawarra became the custodian of the vineyard more than half a century later.  Fruit for Stentiford's Old Vine Shiraz is still sourced from the original vines planted by the Captain back in 1893. 
Old man Brand (now in his 90's) rocked up on his motorised wheelie, still living on site in a modest cottage, he pokes his head in for a coffee now and then.   We were priveleged to go into the original old cellar, some of these wines have been cellared since the early 1900's and they looked like it too, never dusted and labels wearing off.   We can imagine many a good times have been had in here with Eric entertaining his mates.

The autumn colors are showing on the leaves of the vines now, orange and reds.   The grapes are nearly ripe for the picking and then the leaves fall off by winter.    I bought a few bottles today and kept myself tidy, it was a great day out....

Our little chateau, with ensuite and all, we were in the purple row, there's pink, yellow, orange, blue.  All in all a great short stay in Mt Gambier.  Off to Portland tomorrow and hopefully catch up with our friends, Leonie and Des.  

16th March - Exploring Mt Gambier

The weather is not the best clearing showers expected today, but we are determined not to sit around the camp all day.   As it turned out we packed a fair bit in between showers and it ended up being a bit of a photo fest.  First stop was Umpherston Sinkhole.   These seats were cut from logs killed by the Ash Wednesday fires back in 1983.   The logs were stored underwater in Lake Bonney until 1987, when they were recovered, sawn, dried and treated to serve as a lasting reminder of the fire devastation back then.

I love it when I get a good shot of a bird, this one and some mates on the shrubs as we entered the shinkhole, but don't ask me what it is, I'll have to google it one day.......  It was Scotsman James Umpherston who bought the property in 1868 and called in "The Caves".  James transformed the sinkhole into a beautiful garden wonderland, hosting annual picnics  and garden parties.  When he died in 1900, it went to rack and ruin being used as a dumping ground for all sorts.
Looking into the sinkhole.  This was once a limestone cave many years ago, the ceiling collapsed making this crater like hole.  The gardens are terraced with a spiralling walk way and several viewing platforms at different levels.  There aren't too many flowers out at present, but it is all very lush and green.

In behind one of the curtains.
The Umpherstons also built their home on this property, however after his death and the passing of the property through a couple of different hands, the house was bought by the Woods and Forest Dept and then demolished for the expansion of the Mount Gambeir State saw mill back in 1964.....yep that's progress for you.

We spent some time here, dodging a few showers.  This pic from under the cave ledge looking out to the top.

They have done a great job of restoring this place, let's hope it continues on.

I tried to sneak a picture of a poster at the visitor centre with the garden in full bloom, but I got sprung.   $7.95 for the poster, but I reckon this pic is just as good.    Flowers bloom in spring time Sept/Oct apparently, I wondered if it would be later considering this place gets pretty damn cold over winter.   It is even chilly now and it's only autumn.
Next stop was the Blue Lake.  There are a few lakes in this area, Leg of Mutton Lake (who ever thought of that name??) Valley Lake and Brown Lake, all are created from volcanic eruption some 4,800 years ago.   To this day, the blue lake continues to mystify people from all walks - the colour is magic, even on a dull overcast rainy day.  This lake is bottomless and is the water supply for the township of Mt Gambier.  There is a walk/ride track and drive track around the rim of lake.    Lots of people out, some braving the weather and walking...

This view of the lake shows the pumphouse and the pipeline, pumping the water out of the lake.  Just on the other side of the roadway (left in photo) is the Leg of Mutton Lake but there was no water in that one just now. 
We went over to Valley Lake - they have a great recreation area here, barbys, playground etc.   We never seen so many ducks in one place, also water hens and one little lonely ol swan all curled up and going nowhere.    I think it might have a bit of a complex and think it is a duck, cause there were NO other swans about today.

Then........then we took this lovely little steep incline walk up to Centenary Tower.   The flag wasn't flying today which means the tower is closed but the walk is still open and magic views from up there, well I was hoping so - that little pin head in the middle of the walkway in my Darl!  I still had a ways to go.....
Phew!  Made it, great views of the city, Valley Lake and a slight glimpse of Blue Lake.  You can really see the formation of the craters from up here.   Looking to the other side was all farming land, sheep, dairy out towards the coast.
I've been wanting to get a shot of grazing cows for a while now, nothing quite like the black/white on green and blue skis!  The showers were clearing after all, we were headed to Port MacDonnell.

This German mine was washed ashore in 1943.  It was rendered safe and dismantled before putting on display.   The explosive in the mine was hexonite six times more powerful than TNT.  When any of the horns were touched it set of a series of chemical and electrical reactions which in turn caused the mine to explode in 2/5 of a second.   The mine weighed approx 1/4 tonne.  In background is the customs house, a tad bigger than that at Beachport.   However it also incorporated the Police Station, Courthouse, Post and Telegraph office and residence.

We took the scenic drive from Port MacDonnell and not far along come across a picturesque spot on the coast.   This is Frog Rock, there was also a Rhino Rock and Camel Rock at this spot.

This part of the coast was also the site of a military rifle range a long time ago.   It created a bit of an uproar in the community as it closed off this beautiful part of the coast to the public and the 600 yard target was over the nearby cemetery!
Some interesting formations......
We took the drive east along the coast to Riddoch Bay then back to Mt Gambier.
Back in town and after a bite of late lunch back at the trailer, we went down town to do the heritage trail.   Darl was quite interested in checking out a couple of old pubs on the trail, the Mt Gambier Hotel and the Jens Hotel.  The Catholic Church here quite a big church and the stained glass windows made in memorial to outstanding citizens were most impressive, there's still a few plain ones left yet to fill....
The Mt Gambier Hotel, holds the earliest license (1847) in town.  Though the outside looks and is heritage, the inside of the pub is completely renovated to modern theme with no memorabilia on the walls, which was quite disappointing.   We walked the whole trail, we don't do that very often.  It included, churches, post office, government buildings, banks etc.  There is also another Town Cave sinkhole in the city centre, not as impressive as Umpherston but beautiful rose gardens.

The Gardiner Fountain, with Jens Hotel in the background.  The fountain made in Carlton Vic by AA Sleight & Co., at a cost of 600 pounds and given as a gift to the town in 1884 by Capt Robert Gardiner (grandfather of Sir Robert Helpmann).  It is claimed to the the first large marble fountain made in the colony.     Jens Hotel still has it's old world charm, internal staircase in foyer with chandelier.   The Jens is both the building on right and left in this pic, the limestone building an added extension.
A tapestry on the wall of the Jens Hotel upstairs.

15th March - To Mt Gambier

This morning cleared up after the storm, the tent was dry, so we packed up and pushed off.   An old guy we got chatting to Kingston van park, told us that Beachport was a lovely spot for a stop, he had stayed a few days there, shame his wife passed away last year and he was doing a solo, as they had bought a van and planned a trip, so he was doing it anyway, good on him.   We had a look at Robe another little beach side town before getting to Beachport.    We took the scenic drive along the coast here and he was right it is a beautiful spot.

It was blowing a gale, but we decided to take a little walk over to Post Office Rock.    This is the bay on one side of the rock.

As usual my Darl went off to climb the highest peak.    He's pretty agile for an old fella. 
It was blowing that hard I had to shield my ear from getting sand blasted, don't mind the hair!!

A view at the point of Post Office Rock, not sure why they call it that......couldn't see any resemblance to a Post Office out here.
I had already climbed down, however my Darl (bless him) insisted that I climb back up for a photo.   I did try but got a bit stuck on this ledge and the wind near blew my top off!   Unlike my Darl's streak of the Pinnancles this was as close as I get to getting my gear off....  so you also get a good idea of the view of me getting down off that rock on Granite Island out from Victor Harbor.......ahhhh it's not that bad, lol

What's in there Darl?   Peering in the window of the little customs house at Beachport

Continuing on to Mount Gambier we are now getting into Forest country.    There are a couple of big saw mills there.   We got the tip to stay at showgrounds, the tourist info told us you have to be fully self contained.  Not believing this went to check out at the Mobil servo cross the road showgrounds where you pay, they do have facilities but limited spots and all booked out.   We book into Limestone Coast van park and a bonus, we have our own ensuite!!

14th March - To Kingston S.E.

We left Mt Barker headed for Murray Bridge, thinking we would check out the options for a Murray River cruise.  The only one available was a 2 hour cheese/wine cruise later in the day, so we decided to carry on as it was going to be a warm day with showers predicted.  We travelled down the coast road of the Limestone Coast district.  Not too much to see along the way really, a couple of little beach side towns - we had lunch at Meningie.

Lake Alexandrina from Meningie

A view into Encounter Bay / Lacepede Bay between Salt Creek and Kingston S.E.

We saw quite a few of those crazy push bike riders along this stretch of road.   I wanted to stop and take some pics at Policeman Point, but there wasn't too much between the Welcome To and Farewell signs, only an old garage which is now a private residence and a pub this is closed and up for sale......

We called it a day at Kingston S.E (South East) - apparently there is another Kingston up north.  Booked into the van park, cooled down a bit and decided to take a push bike ride down to the big lobster that greeted us on arrival to town.  Only thing was there was a storm looming, anyway we didn't let that deter us.   This is the historic Cape Jaffa Lighthouse, built 1868 to 1872 at Margaret Brock Reef, relocated here in 75/76.

Len Lampit Reserve, was probably famous for something but we weren't hanging around to search for other info boards as the storm was getting closer and we hadn't made the lobster yet.  Jetty in the background right.

Now this is a bloody big lobster, bigger than the one at Dongara-Denison and there won't be any climbing this one, well we probably could've tried but at this point it did start raining heavy rain drops.......
One quick last pic before we high tail it back to camp to take cover from the storm, this is Kingston Analemmatic Sundial and Sculpture Park.   This shot of the sundial, from what I could quickly work out you stand on the bit in the middle to determine the time, but we couldn't try it out cause there was nooooo sun.  Back at camp it did bucket down and thunder but not for long.  We had a nice night in the camp kitchen chatting..... and drinking with some young English and Swede travellers.  The Poms travelling in a wicked van said it had a strange smell about it, often wonder what they are like to travel in..........maybe not.

13th March - Mt Lofty

We had a quiet morning, blog etc., then after lunch jumped on Suzi for a ride to Mt Lofty Summit.  Somewhere along the line, Darl took the wrong turn and we ended back on the free way going backwards.   Never mind it happens, we got there in the end.   It was a little disappointing as there had been an oil fire somewhere today and the view was somewhat hazy.   The city in the middle of this pic, is surrounded by park lands. 
The 710 metre Mount Lofty Summit is the highest point in the Adelaide Hills.  There are bush walking trails from the summmit through to the Cleland Wildlife Park.    Here is Flinders Column in honour of Matthew Flinders, commander of the Investigator, who from Kangaroo head, KI discovered and named Mt Lofty on 23/03/1802.

Piccadilly Valley to the east of Mt Lofty.  Great farming area, started out vegie crops in the 1800's, not great vine growing region.   Until in 1986 Petaluma wines released a sparkling chardonay which marked the revival of the wine industry in the Adelaide Hills.

A view on the fly from back of the Suzi, I'm getting a bit more confident now going through the hills back to Mt Barker, though I still get a little nervous at 45 degree angle.  
Lots of great little country villages around the hills.
As we missed the meals last nite we tried again tonight at Grays Inn.    Great chicken parma, chips and salad washed down with a couple of drinks.   Got chatting to the friendly barman, Darl reckon he was Scottish, but he was 50/50 Pom/Irish.  Moved out here 7 years ago and never looked back, reckons UK gone to the pack.
It was the end of the keg, a bit frothy but my Darl managed.