9th to 10th May - Carnarvon Gorge

We’re looking forward to getting to Carnarvon today, one of those places we have always wanted to go and even though it is really in our back yard, just haven’t got there.  Today we saw camels, a heap of emus, travelling along and we have been seeing a big presence of the boys in blue along the roads out here as well.   Pit stop at Injune, they have an interesting art gallery at the info centre, displaying works of local artists.   It was just on 10am, we asked at info centre if the pub would be open, yes it opens at 10.   We walked the next block to the pub, but it was shut and no one in sight this time to open up for us thirsty travelers (not like back in Carrieton SA).   A lot of shops empty in the main street here.    

Strange place to park a car....the art gallery Injune

It's after 10 o'clock and the pub ain't open - damn

We didn’t realise that Carnarvon is only one National Park in a number north of Injune – Nuga Nuga, Lonesome, Beilba and Mt Moffat all National parks in this area.    We had been cruising along for a while and I said to Darl we should be getting close to the turn off, Darl reckoned we were nearly at Rolleston (which is about 60kms north of Carnarvon) – oh no don’t tell me we have missed the turn off, did you notice any signs, nah – great we are going to end up in Rolleston and will have to back track.   We were really happy when we come around the very next bend and there were the turn off signs to Carnarvon National Park.

Along the road into Carnarvon National Park

These Yellow Eyed Chuffs loved the rotten avo

Stand off, my Darl and a big fella roo! On riverbank by camp ground

We settled in at Takarakka Bush Resort and went to the – Intro to Carnarvon talk – around the fire pit at 5pm.   We really wanted some advice on what walks to take as there are several options.   We were thinking go the furtherest to Cathedral Cave then do the other points on the return walk.  Simon convinced us to do the 13km walk to Art Gallery, Ward’s Canyon, Moss Garden then the following day we would do the 1000 steps up to Boolimba Bluff, right that’s our plan Stan.     WRONG, we got to the rangers office next morning, had a chat to the ranger there and we were off to Cathedral Cave, but while we are there we must do Boowinda Gorge and Big Bend – in total 23km round trip including 14 river crossings.  Okay we (or should I say I can do this, it goes without saying that Darl will romp it in).

My Darl the dag! Boardies with belt on to hold his "action camera".....

One of the many creek crossings we encountered

Over millions of years, the Carnarvon Creek has gouged soft sandstone from the vertical white cliffs of the gorge.  The creek flows all year round, giving life to luxuriant growth of ferns, palms, shrubs, trees and fauna.  There is over 173 bird species in this national park and a large number of animals including platypus, echidnas, bandicoots, possums, gliders and the usual roos, dingoes, snakes etc.    They even have a beware of the scorpion notice in the campground brochure, the first warning for scorpions we have seen anywhere. 

Palm framed creek outlook to gorge wall

The gorge walls stunning - this creek in flood would be a sight

From creek beds to grass lands, snake radar is out and about

We were a little ways in when I suddenly remembered the walking sticks, they would’ve been real handy.    The walk into the gorge is stunning and we have a lot of photo stops along the way.    I went off at a pace of knots, my Darl did his usual snail pace behind me.    I’m thinking, yep he’ll probably overtake me on the return leg, when I’m fading from exhaustion.    The creek crossings were interesting, a stone path led the way across the creeks, some more stable than others.   It was a bit tricky when we had to find the track on the other side, the best advice from Simon was to look first before crossing to make sure you meet the track on the other side,  lucky for the pink ribbon and orange triangles on the trees AND the  number of footprints in the sand.

Some more gorge views en route to our end destination. 

Even though it is a reasonably easy walk, it is a bit rough in places with rocks and a few tree trunks we had to clamber over.   My feet started aching at about the 10km mark but I didn’t let on, I kept counting down the crossings, no. 17 thank god only 3 more to go.   We got to Cathedral Cave, a sandstone overhang adorned with aboriginal paintings and carvings – only 500 metres to Big Bend (Do we really want to go there) YEP, it was the hardest of all practically walking over the rocky river bed to get there.  The walk “there” is always good, it’s the walk back I don’t really look forward to.
   

The great sandstone overhang forming Cathedral Cave which is a show piece of aboriginal art - stencils, paintings and engravings.   Australian aboriginals utilised the resources of Carnarvon Gorge for thousand of years.  Some of their art, still visible today is centuries old - relics of a tribal way of life and culture that existed before European settlement.

Some examples of the stencil art - boomerangs, axes, hands and engravings - vulvas, emu eggs

Big Bend!  Now we only have the return leg to complete...

Smiling on the outside, fading on the inside at Big Bend

We had lunch at Big Bend picnic area, which you can see in floods the water rushes through here.     Time was getting on we left at 9.30 and got to Cathedral Cave at 12.30 – still had to do Boowinda Gorge and start heading back, I don’t think we will get any of the other sites done on the return trip.   We left for the return at 2pm going by our 3 hr trek up here we won’t be getting back till 5 and by then it is almost dark.   WELL, didn’t my Darl step up the pace – he practically left me for dead, C’MON LING!!   Get a move on!!    Well I am sorry but my tiring legs could not keep up the pace with my Darl – but thankfully he did stop and wait for me to catch up at each creek crossing.  I also still wanted to have a good look around and take some more pics on the way back.    I don’t think I will be doing the 1000 steps up Boolimba Bluff tomorrow.   Actually I KNOW I won’t be doing it.   No chance of doing the Wards, Moss and Art Gallery either – as one bloke on the track put it, you have to leave something for next time you visit, that sounded good to me……  We got back to the car park at 4.45pm yay ahead of time, just in time to get back to camp for happy hour and a well earned foot soak!!

Inside Boowinda Gorge, this gorge is very narrow in spots and you are able to walk for a couple of kilometres into it, to meet a path that continues to Battleship Spur.  Actually the walk we have done today is referred to as the main walking track which is only the first section of the Carnarvon Great Walk, an 86 kilometre walking trail, just a 6-7 day circuit walk (in the park).  Not today Josephine!  

Another shot walking out of Boowinda Gorge, phew we are not attempting Battleship Spur today.   The Carnarvon Great Walk though sounds an almightly challenge for some, does sound interesting, heading up and out of Carnarvon Gorge onto the plateaus of the Great Dividing Range - "The Roof of Queensland" then crossing part of Mount Moffat section of Carn Nat Park, returning via the main walking track near Boolimba Bluff.

Watch your step Darl!

A small section of the ferny ground cover

The stepping stones on some crossing were not very big, it was difficult in some not to get the shoes wet.   In fact feeling under pressure to keep up I slipped at one crossing not a nice feeling getting your shoes wet, then when I was going up the bank on the other side bonked my head on a branch, it felt like a big branch and I started to feel a little "fragile" at this point.  I regrouped not letting on my fragility and soldiered on!   After a big day out we enjoyed left overs for tea and indulged in my now favorite Turkish Delight Tim Tams and hot milo with Baileys and marshmallows and the world all of a sudden seemed okay again........