Wednesday 2 November 2011

29th - 30th Oct Point Samson

As we left Marble Bar, we travel through the Coongan Gorge, a 6 km narrow stretch of road with dips and bends.   We met a road train on way out, but none today.    Just past here we turn off for 3kms narrow dirt track to Doolena Gorge.  Very pituresque, but the river runs dry.    We're heading to Port Hedland, well into the mining district of the Pilbara.   We have well and truly left the boabs and pearls behind at Broome.  Saturday morning and we arrive at the Tourist Info Centre at P.Hedland, it was closed and closed all week-end, didn't they know we were coming?? 

We had a look at the port, watched a ship depart port, guided by the tugs.   Fully laden with Iron Ore.     We were both surprised to see the salt mines as we approached town, another huge export with 90 percent of export salt going to Asia.   We don't think much of this place, another  mining town looking a bit drab.  We drive around a bit looking for a nice shady tree/park for lunch but none around, we had lunch by the beach in a shelter and nice sea gales (not breezes).  My darl is hanging out for a beer.   We can't find a pub, so decide to blow this town and head south to the

Whim Creek Pub a little over half way between P Hedland and Karratha.  We are greeted by a sign, Whim Creek Pub 500 metres, A MUST.   Well we did but is was shut down, had a water problem and was due to start renos on 02/11.    There is no town, just a pub - but it is right beside a copper operational mine.    We couldn't believe the people that stopped while we were there, all as us disappointed it was closed..... Where to next??  It's only 50 odd k's to Roebourne, so we give that a go.    Roebourne pub is closed too!!  I ask at the servo, a couple desperados - Where's the closest pub??   Point Samson Tavern, okey dokey!

We find the pub, yes it is open, great!   There is two van parks, the just opened Cove Holiday Park and the Samson Beach Van Park.   We go the latter as $2 cheaper and much smaller than the Cove.    We were greeted by the grumpiest bloke, no bag of smiles today.    Anyway we settle in for a couple of nights and I  might add the pub is right next door.   $16.20 for a beer and a bourbon, the schooner beer $8!!   We had one drink and got some trake aways.   In morning we jump on the treddlies and set off on the heritage trail around town, via the old jetty (now dismantled) Yep treddlies don't go so well through sand either!

Onto, Honeymoon Cove, the harbour, we tried to treddle out to Pope's Nose bridge but a bit too far out of town, up to a look out to view a boat wreck, it was a while ago, not much left of it and only visible low tide.  Then by Centenary Park, it is pretty cool, they have statues of Sting rays, whales, turtles and fish.   We still had quite a bit of time to kill today, so we decide to drive over to Cossack a little historical village about 15 kms away.    This town was the first WA town to start pearling.   It was only when they exhausted all supplied that the pearling industry moved north to Broome.
Several of the old buildings still remain and have been restored and preserved.  The courthouse (also now a museum), where I read the riot act to my Darl!   Galbraith Store, Police barracks (now offering budget accomm) and a site manager lives, cook house and old gaol, customs and bond store, school house, post office and bakery.    We spend a good couple hours here wandering through the buildings.   It's hard to imagin this was a thriving little village all those years ago.

Lock him up and throw away the key! 
When the pearling industry died they took to making turtle soup.   Check the turtle on the side car in the bottom right of the photo.   
The view from the town lookout.   I reckon you could almost call this town a ghost town, if it wasn't for the on site manager and few accommodation rooms.    In a couple of the buildings numerous lights are hanging from the ceilings, where they have art shows from time to time.    No works of art on the walls this time.  

The old court house building.   Quite majestic really.     We drive through town out to the beach, a lot of plaques dot the landscape where buildings once stood.   We drive by the cemetry, do we want a look, nah - but we can't help ourselves we stop and take a stroll through.   The cemetry in a prime water front location, however the graves are in need of a little TLC. 

A change of pace back at the Point, we decide to be sociable and go have another expensive round at the pub.    It is 3pm in the arvo and the place is still packed with Sunday diners.    Then "Elenore" arrived and my Darl was suitably impressed.



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