Tuesday, 6 December 2011

28th Nov - 2nd Dec Geraldton

We were a bit apprehensive of coming into Geraldton, this is the first big town really since Darwin.   Traffic lights n all!  It’s a big country town really, approx 40 000 population.  Check out the tourist info, usually our first stop in every town we stay at. We check into the Belair Gardens.  Surprisingly, the internet service is very poor, so I am not able to do any blog updates for the week.   I’ve dummied my notes and will add the pics as soon as I get a chance and some decent service.
Wheat country!

My Darl has taken to Emu Export,

My Darl the laundry boy!

My Darl, the BIG kid, loves a jump

We do a bit of a tourist drive with Alana and Ian, up to HMAS Sydney II memorial.  It is a wonderful memorial atop a hill overlooking the coast.  We join the 10.30 am volunteer tour guide and it is most informative and gives a great insight into how the memorial is set up and the meaning of all the elements, we wouldn’t have known otherwise.  For instance, the gull dome is made of 645 gulls representing each of the men lost their lives, there were no survivors.   There is several propellors on display all upside down meaning dead ship.   A brass statue of a woman looking out to sea waiting for the men to come home, the site was not know when she was erected.  Look through the hole her elbow makes and that is the direction of where the Sydney wreck was located.   The Sydney was downed by a German raider Kormoran in WWII, 19/11/41.  It was many years before the wreck of the Sydney was located, only from notes taken from the interrogations of the surviving German raider as that vessel was also downed in the battle, unlike the Sydney there were some survivors, captured and sent to POW camp.


We have a look at the St Francis Xavier Cathedral designed by Monsignor Hawes, the priest/architect who arrived from Germany in 1915 as parish priest.  Completed in 1938 the first thing that struck us about the church was the colorful stripes throughout, orange and silver.

We also visited Point Moore Lighthouse, the Old Goal and Craft Centre, the WA Museum which has a great display on the ship wrecks in past centuries, including the most infamous, the Batavia back in the 1600’s, hence this area is known as the Batavia Coast.   Bill and Lyn arrived today and the boys – Darl, Ian and Bill went off to watch the Danny Green fight and we girls had our own little happy hour.   They come back pretty dejected when Danny was KO’d in the 11th round, he had won every round up to then, what a way to go……
Another place of worship, Freemasons Hotel

The trip to the Abrolhos Islands was a highlight.   We joined Alana and Ian and “chartered” our own private plane (well we were the only ones on the tour that day so we felt special).  We were a little worried as the wind was so strong, but it wasn’t a problem only a bit shaky on take off and landing.  The Abrolhos islands consist of approx 122 small coral reef islands in 3 groups, where fishing for cray fish and pearl farming are the two  industries.  During cray fish season the fishermen go out and live on the islands for 3-4 months in brightly painted little fishing huts and there's not much else out there, barely a tree.... 


Long Island

We enjoyed a day of flying, snorkeling, a nature walk, lunch etc.  Saw lots of different birds on the island, the snorkeling was great, my first big adventure out into the depths surrounding the coral reef, don’t worry I had my noodle to keep me afloat.  Though we didn’t see any wild life, wallabies, lizards, we did see some sea lions on the flight over.   A fantastic day out!  We bought a disposable waterproof camera for some snorkelling shots, just one problem, have to find someone now that develops disposables, not an easy task we are finding out.
I forgot my noodle! Life saver to the rescue..

My hero Darl, ran 5kms back to plane to get it!!

Belair Gardens right on this point past the harbour
  We picked up the car after we managed to get into an auto place here to get the gear box fixed so took it for a burn out to Mallewa (99km north east).  A big upgrade going on with the railway and a lot of workers out in the heat of the day, toiling hard.  This is big wheat country.  We ran into a chap at the pub who told us this is the biggest season he can remember.  A harvest contractor, he did 50 000 tonne last year and this year already 400 000 tonne.  His best previous tally was 300 000 tonne.   They are running out of storage space for the wheat, cannot export it quick enough.  We had a look at another of Monsignor Hawes creations, Our Lady of Mount Carmel church.  We wanted to have a look at his residence/museum also, but it was closed.  Only open in “tourist” season. 
My Darl contemplating in the contemplative corner.


Ling, a little petal amongst the blooms!

Moonyoonooka Store, that's original!!


27th Nov - To Coronation Beach

We set off to Coronation Beach this morning, Alana and Ian left a little earlier, but we both heading to the same destination.   We called into the Lynton Convict Ruins, just outside of Port Gregory.   And we got stuck!   We wandered around the grounds, some old cell blocks and houses and then headed through the gate to Stanford House another historic site.   Darl wasn’t that keen but I convinced him we just have to go have a look, no need to get out of car.  We saw the old barn and couldn’t help ourselves.  Had a good look around at the memorabilia and artefacts they have on display.   This part of the convict grounds is on a working farm (farmstay), the barn, flour mill and Stanford house. 
Hey Darl, I don't think these living conditions up to our standard

The barn where we met our fate and Ed the Melaleuca man!




























Cut a long story short, old mate Ed cornered us, got talking to us and we walked away spending over $100 on Melaleuca (Wellness Co) products, this could be the beginning of a new health kick for us.  $1 to join for us, you have to place a monthly order to get wholesale prices otherwise you pay retail, BUT you get a 90 day trial period, money back guarantee…..  A couple hours later we leave, thinking Alana and Ian will be wondering where we got to and what the hell just happened!  We going in with open mind…..
Fire place in Standford House

The old flour mill 1856

There is something about the trees over here in WA!

 







































We called into Horrocks, a nice little seaside village, quite a bit bigger than Port Gregory, but the little fibro fishing/holiday huts are everywhere here.   We take a few pics, had a nice sanga at the shop for lunch and kept on our way.    This place bigger than Port Gregory, has numerous little colourful fishing/holiday huts.   The car is taking a hammering with the wind and hills.   The gear box is still not right, so we will be getting that looked at in Perth.     We pass through Northampton, though we think this place is worth a stop too (next time).   One for sis, they have an Airing of the Quilts festival in October each year, with a parade that none other than the Prince of Hutt River leads.


 











We get to Coronation Beach, we are slowly working it out.   The sport of choice here in WA certainly seems to be Wind Surfing and Kite Surfing, as we have come across a little haven here for wind and kite surfers.   There’s up to 20 in the water and they are scooting along, yep really, it is so windy over here what other sport would you take up.  This is just an overnighter, $15 toilet and wash room (supply own water) available.  They have a day use area and camp area, 21 sites with a caretaker.  A nice overnighter. 

Framed! Our camp and Alana and Ian's yeah they got the bus..


26th Nov to Port Gregory

                                                                                                                                                                                      We’re off to visit a Prince today in another country (apparently).  Prince Leonard of the Principality of Hutt River.    On the 21/4/1970 his property was seceded from Australia all, 18,500 acres of land, due to a dispute over a wheat quota.  I was expecting to be a castle and security gates at the entrance, but no, it was just like going to visit the folks on the farm (wheat). 

He's not a very attractive head is Prince Leonard...
 It is quite interesting how the place is set up, the “town” is called Nain and consists of various buildings, including Admin Building (Government office and Post Office), Tea Rooms, Chapel, not forgetting the arcade with memorabilia (souvenirs).  Yes you can spend quite a bit of money here if you want, they take all denominations.

Memorabillia / Souvenir Shop

Admin buiding including Gov and Post Office



























They have their own currency, stamps, number plates and I guess all else that comes with operating your own Independent Sovereign State.   The Prince held audience with us for quite some time, he never drew breath, a very interesting chap, one would say eccentric really.  The Princess was not present as she was recovering from a fall.  Definitely worth a look if you ever over this way.  No entry fee, a donation box or if you get sucked in like us they have every souvenir imaginable, even postcards!

Several statues made up of all sorts of bits in grounds


The Chapel - note the artworks on walls


























We are travelling along today with Alana and Ian (our friends with the bus/motorhome). Next stop is Port Gregory and the Pink Lake, yes it is pink and we got the photos to prove it.  Quite a number really, Alana and I went a bit crazy with the lake, as not ever seeing anything like this before we found it pretty amazing. 














We booked into the Port Gregory Van Park, this is a small fishing village, with lots of little fibro fishing/holiday huts.  The permanent residents amount to 28.  It’s probably the smallest town we have visited so far.  It has a corner store and a fire brigade and ambulance.  The van park is just taken over by a young couple, Tim and Sam with 11 week old baby boy.  They have done some great renos and the place has the best rec room we have seen on our travels so far, including pool table, big flat screen TV, bbq’s and lots of tables/chairs, we can see they have some big party nights here.   Transport of choice here is quad bikes, every man and his dog has got one.















We gather our drinks, nibbles, chairs etc., and Ian drives us up to the water tank look out for sunset.  We are told the lake turns colour to a purple in late afternoon/sunset.  That doesn’t happen but yet again Alana and I go a bit crazy on taking pics of the Lake/sunset/Lake/sunset and a few of us in between. The colour of the lake is due to a bacteria trapped in the salt granules which provides a rich source of beta carotene which is harvested from small ponds.   Here we also meet Roger and Jan from Rockingham just south of Perth, asked us to call in.  They are heavily into windsurfing and kite surfing and like so many we meet, travelled all around Australia over past years.

The crew less me, watertank, sun, Pt Gregory

Mel sees the devil in this cloud, use imagination

Lake not so pink at sunset, sometimes goes purple







Friday, 25 November 2011

22nd - 25th Nov Kalbarri

We booked into the Murchinson Caravan Park, no 3 for 2 or 4 for 3 deals going here, but we still get our 10% top tourist member discount here.  We settle in and venture out with Alana and Ian to Rainbow Jungle, the Australian Parrot Breeding Centre.  $13.50 pp entry and well worth the visit.  They have just about all imaginable parrots from the budgie, lorikeets, cockatoos to south american macaws.  These bigger birds have like a playground in their cages, chew ropes, logs, one even had a slippery slide.  I think that was only for show somehow.
Alana and I went a bit snap happy.  We enjoyed walking through the parrot free flight aviary, the largest in the country.  The grounds and cages all well kept and cared for.  This is Noodles a red headed gang gang.  Apparently a very good talker but was a little shy when we were there, his mate Kafuffles was camera shy.   They also have a great whale viewing tower, we are a little late for the whales, season ends November.


From there we took a bit of a drive out to Mushroom Rock, Red Bluff (yep another one) view from the lookout overlooking Red Bluff Beach.  Back to Blue Holes which is great for snorkelling.  Actually we met a guy along the way reckons the waters just south of Quobba Blowholes are the best ever for snorkelling even better than Ningaloo Reef, Exmouth.  We went for a gander through Eco Flora Estate, yep they have a nobs hill too.  Very big flash houses, but a big sign at the entry to estate saying In Hands of Receivers...........

Next day we join Alana and Ian for a trip out to the gorges in Kalbari National Park.  First stop Z Bend, though it is not so destinct from this angle.  A 500 metre stroll from the carpark to the look out tower 150 metres above the river.  All natural walkway, good to see. 

Yep we lashed out and bought us some fly nets, the best $13.00 spent.  No more digesting those pesky little flies for me! 

Sorry Darl, I ain't going there, not enough room for the both of us, reluctantly I take off my fly net hat for the pic.  This is a lookout on the way to Nature's Window.

Note I am not actually sitting on my Darl's chicken legs.  Can't wait for the matte sunscreen to be finished.  My Darl has a ghostly look about him.   Nature's Window, a natural rock arch that frames the upstream view and is a modest 400 metre walk from the carpark.  There is an 8 km loop walk from this point, takes a couple of hours for the fit, we opt not to take this option.  It is 38 deg in town today, the locals say the temp out in the National Park is up to 10 deg higher.  There is warnings everywhere about the dangers of heat exhaustion.  People have died out here from heat exhaustion, scary hairy.

We are the only 4 out here today donning the attractive fly nets and we are now getting the smirks and funny looks that we used to give people we come across.  Well bullie for them we ain't got flies buzzing around our face!   This shot taken at Ross Graham Lookout, named after a school teacher made a significant contribution to community and environment, died at 31 back in the 1960's.  We also visited Hawk's Head....

Wild flower season is just about over, starting end of winter and into spring.  A lot of the flowers have been and gone already but we still noticing quite a few still flowering, the fields are alive with these purple bushes.  Also, see some red, gold, yellow, white varieties very colorful.  Back at camp for the arvo, went for swim at Chinamen's beach, nice spot.

18th - 21st Nov - Denham, Shark Bay

On our way to Denham along the Brand Highway, past the Wooramel Roadhouse, there is a lookout on the right side, which I believe overlooks Shark Bay/Hamelin Pool.  It also overlooks the inland limestone ranges.  Nice spot for a photo.   There are also a couple of pyramids of rocks and a mound of rocks looks quite like a grave site which is covered with gnomes and notes from people of all corners of the globe. 
We can't help but leave our mark on one of the rocks on the pyramid before continuing the drive to Denham in Shark Bay world heritage area.   We keep running into Ian and Alana (Melb Cup Dampier), they have also booked into the same van park as us, Denham Seaside Tourist Park, the most westerly van park in WA.  We thought that pretty cool, as at $350 for a day trip to Steep Point (the most westerly point of Australia) we are not going to be making that trip.  Denham overlooks Dirk Hartog Island and Useless Loop on the mainland.  And is it BLOWING a gale.

There are several accommodation places out on the pennisular - Hamelin Pool, Nanga, Monkey Mia plus a few beach camp spots, which you need a permit for whichs allows you to camp for one night only (no return trips) - there is no toilet facilities or water at these camps.  If you don't have a chemical loo, make sure to take your spade.  Darl has found a riding buddy, Ian on his BMW.   We sent them off to check out Monkey Mia for our trip over their the next day.  Take your time boys, us girls are going down the street, check out the shops.

Monkey Mia is a little resort spot a bit like Coral Bay.   Resort accommodation, van and camping ground.   All the water activities are available, from swimming, fishing to two up underwater boats and paddle boats and cruises.   But it is all about the dolphins, have to get there early, feeding time starts at about 8am to 12pm.  Two to three feeding sessions depending on how hungry the dolphins are.  This is special as they have a new 3 week old baby, Piper.   They all have names.   The handlers walk into water and select people from the crowd to have a go at feeding.
Alana and I are lucky as we both get picked out to have a go.   Special but my Darl is nowhere to be seen, so I don't get a photo.  There is about 25 dolphins in this bay, on the opposite side of pennisular to Denham.  It is no where as windy as over there.  Today 11 dolphins come in to feed.  The tip is hang around for all feeds as the crowd gets smaller each feed time so better the chances to get picked.  We booked the sunset cruise, so spend the day fishing, viewing one of the numerous documentaries available and did the glass bottom boat thing.  

The cruise was cancelled as the winds come up in arvo and it is far too dangerous to take the cat out.  So we have an early dinner there, nice tucker - mains $30+.   We'll try the cruise tomorrow night.   We spend a day touring around Denham and the outskirts.  40kms south to Shell Beach, this place is amazing.  Created naturally from hundreds of millions of tiny sea shells.  Compacted shell was once quarried for building blocks and used in some of the buildings around Denham.   Water is crystal clear here.

Eagle Bluff, has a 200 metre boardwalk on top of the cliff.  Great view from up here over to Useless Loop (where they have been mining salt since 1962 - the mine and township is closed to tourists, entry only by permit from mine manager).  From up here we get a birds eye view of the bay below which has a number of stingrays and sharks (Lemon and Nervous) swimming about.  Turtles also inhabit these waters but we didn't spot any today.  While the glass bottom boat wasn't expensive, we see more marine wildlife from the shore at Monkey Mia and here.  Some folks did day cruises Monkay Mia they also spotted dugongs.

Ocean Park is well worth a visit $19 pp, however a guided tour through the several acquariums is very informative and they do a feeding on every tour.    That's feed the fish, sharks, sting rays.  Can you make this critter out, it is a deadly stone fish, not the most attractive fish on the block.  They have a pond outside full of barra, red emporer, gropers.  Some of these fish have serious teeth happening.  The guide showed us his hands covered in scars where he had been bitten.  No shark bites though.

The winds at Denham are truly bad, the average is about 30 to 40 kph.  One day we stayed it was up to 59 kph.  A great test for the camper which stood up no worries.  We had to cook inside though.  We also went to the movies Saturday night, $10 entry for movie and a barby.  What a bargain and the movie was Red Dog, the Dampier legend.  We really enjoyed the movie which was funny and sad, based on a true story.   We managed to get the sunset cruise in, the winds not so bad, so off we went with Alana and Ian, drinks and nibblies BYO.  Still a bit rough and windy but we enjoyed the outing.
On our way out from Denham we stopped off at Hamelin Pool Caravan Park where you are able to access a walk to the shell quarry and the Stromatolites.   This is the old quarry which early settlers excavated with a cross cut saw, to build many buildings including several station homesteads and Denham church.  The only blocks taken from this quarry today are to maintain those historic buildings.
The living microbes that build Stromatolites in the highly saline waters of Hamelin Pool are similar to the earliest forms of life dating back 3000 million years.  Colonies of marine Stromatolites such as these have helped science gain a better understanding of the evolution of life on earth over the millennia.    By the way it wasn't as windy today, but the FLIES!!  We stayed at a great 24 hour camp at Galena Bridge (Murchinson River) flies were bad there too, at the end of the day, the tally was 5 nil, Ling's favour.  I am investing in a fly net first opportunity.....